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Occurrences of Predicted Wave Overtopping Assessed Using In Situ Winter Observations at an Emergent Beach-Fronted Sea Wall

Brown, Jennifer ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-3894-4651; Masselink, Gerd; Poate, Timothy ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4285-3066; Stokes, Christopher; Yelland, Margaret ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-0936-4957; Pascal, Robin; Jones, David; Walk, John ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0009-6760-4929; Cardwell, Christopher ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1305-4174; Martin, Barry; Ganderton, Peter ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4550-319X; Ridgewell, Justin; Adams, Ruth ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0009-2088-5989; Canning, Paul; Saunders, Joseff. 2026 Occurrences of Predicted Wave Overtopping Assessed Using In Situ Winter Observations at an Emergent Beach-Fronted Sea Wall. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 14 (19). 1833. 10.3390/jmse14191833

Abstract

A growing reliance on (ageing) sea walls to protect people, property and infrastructure is a global coastal management issue. Wave overtopping hazard is increasing in likelihood throughout the year due to sea-level rise and is not only associated with winter storms. Adaptive management requires accurate predictive tools to explore future options and forecast hazard. Predictive tools, based on empirical rules derived mainly from scaled experiments, can be highly uncertain in real-world application due to limited multi-process representation. We analyse a unique 4-month field dataset of coastal wave overtopping at two locations, ~345 m apart, along a sea wall fronted by an emergent beach, in SW England. Nearly one order of magnitude difference in the number of waves overtopping occurs between the two sites, most likely due to the variability in the beach influencing the coastal dynamics. Higher beach levels reduce but do not always eliminate overtopping, even when the beach is emergent above the high tide level. The number of waves overtopping increases with higher water elevations. The likelihood of overtopping will potentially increase with sea-level rise while the emergent beach is sustained. During winter 2021/2022, overtopping was incorrectly predicted for 49% of the tides using an empirical approach that disregards wind influence and the temporal variability in and emergence of the beach levels in front of the sea wall. Predictive tools and approaches for beach-fronted vertical structures must account for non-static and emergent beaches, wind influence and broken waves.

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Programmes:
Research Groups > Coastal Ocean
NOC Research Groups 2025 > Coastal Ocean
NOC Mission Networks > Hazards & Pollution
Research Groups > Ocean-shelf-processes
NOC Research Groups 2025 > Ocean-shelf-processes
Research Groups > Ocean Technology and Engineering
NOC Research Groups 2025 > Ocean Technology and Engineering
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