J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2017, 5(1), 1; doi:10.3390/jmse5010001
Role of Beach Morphology in Wave Overtopping Hazard Assessment
1
Department of Geography and Planning, School of Environmental Sciences, University of Liverpool, Roxby Building, Chatham St., Liverpool L69 7ZT, UK
2
National Oceanography Centre, Joseph Proudman Building, 6 Brownlow St., Liverpool L3 5DA, UK
3
European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts, Shinfield Park, Reading RG2 9AX, UK
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Academic Editor: Dong-Sheng Jeng
Received: 18 August 2016 / Revised: 2 December 2016 / Accepted: 19 December 2016 / Published: 5 January 2017
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Modelling Waves in Coasts and Estuaries)
Abstract
Understanding the role of beach morphology in controlling wave overtopping volume will further minimise uncertainties in flood risk assessments at coastal locations defended by engineered structures worldwide. XBeach is used to model wave overtopping volume for a 1:200 year joint probability distribution of waves and water levels with measured, pre- and post-storm beach profiles. The simulation with measured bathymetry is repeated with and without morphological evolution enabled during the modelled storm event. This research assesses the role of morphology in controlling wave overtopping volumes for hazardous events that meet the typical design level of coastal defence structures. Results show that disabling storm-driven morphology under-represents modelled wave overtopping volumes by up to 39% under highKeywords:
sea defence breaching; storm morphology; wave overtopping; XBeach; flood hazard; joint probability; beach morphodynamics; wave modelling
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This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. (CC BY 4.0).
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Phillips, B.T.; Brown, J.M.; Bidlot, J.-R.; Plater, A.J. Role of Beach Morphology in Wave Overtopping Hazard Assessment. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2017, 5, 1.
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J. Mar. Sci. Eng.
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