Wave-current interactions in a wave-dominated tidal inlet

Dodet, Guillaume; Bertin, Xavier; Bruneau, Nicolas; Fortunato, André B.; Nahon, Alphonse; Roland, Aron. 2013 Wave-current interactions in a wave-dominated tidal inlet. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 118 (3). 1587-1605. https://doi.org/10.1002/jgrc.20146

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Official URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/jgrc.20146

Abstract/Summary

Wave-current interactions play a major role in the dynamics of shallow tidal inlets. This study investigates these interactions at a natural inlet, with a strong focus on current-induced changes on wave propagation. The analysis of hydrodynamic data collected at the Albufeira lagoon, Portugal, revealed spatiotemporal variations of water levels and wave heights along the inlet, attributed to wave-current interaction processes. We compared the simulations of a coupled wave-circulation modeling system, computed with and without waves, and propagated with and without current feedback. The wave-induced setup inside the lagoon represented 7%–15% of the offshore significant wave height. The accuracy of the wave's predictions improved when current feedback was included. During ebb, the currents increased the wave height at the mouth of the inlet (up to 20%) and decreased the wave height in the inlet (up to 40%), due to current-induced refraction, steepness dissipation, and partial blocking. During flood, the currents decreased the wave height in the inlet (up to 10%) and increased the wave height at the exterior parts of the ebb shoal (up to 10%), due to current-induced refraction. These effects significantly attenuate seaward sediment fluxes during ebb and contribute to the sediment accretion in the inlet.

Item Type:	Publication - Article
Digital Object Identifier (DOI):	https://doi.org/10.1002/jgrc.20146
Programmes:	BAS Programmes > Polar Science for Planet Earth (2009 - ) > Polar Oceans
ISSN:	21699275
Additional Keywords:	hydrodynamic modelling, shallow tidal inlet, wave blocking, sediment dynamics
NORA Subject Terms:	Marine Sciences
Date made live:	01 May 2013 10:30 +0 (UTC)
URI:	https://nora.nerc.ac.uk/id/eprint/501731

Item Type:

Publication - Article

Digital Object Identifier (DOI):

https://doi.org/10.1002/jgrc.20146

Programmes:

BAS Programmes > Polar Science for Planet Earth (2009 - ) > Polar Oceans

ISSN:

21699275

Additional Keywords:

hydrodynamic modelling, shallow tidal inlet, wave blocking, sediment dynamics

NORA Subject Terms:

Marine Sciences